Khorog to Murghab: A Soldier’s Welcome

We arrived late in Murghab, just as it was completely dark, and went to the soldier's home, where a lot of his extended family was there to greet him. It was heartwarming to see such a return, and they welcomed Sailaubai and I in for the best two bowls of shorpa I had in Central Asia.

Ishkashim to Khorog: The Wheelbarrow & The Customs Officer

Anyhow, I now have a scar from the time I was in a bazaar in the neutral territory between Tajikistan and Afghanistan and got run over by a wheelbarrow.